Dabboo Ratnani, India’s top celebrity and fashion photographer writes exclusively for Fotoflock.com. In his first column, he shares his secrets to conducting successful portfolio shoots.

I meet with the models and ask them what they are looking for, whether they want to get into acting or modelling and then stylise the portfolio according to their requirements. If they want to pursue acting, the folio focuses more on close ups and expressions. The styling for models, on the other hand, includes more full-length shots to highlight the body language of the models. If the model is tall and has a nice body, we design the clothes accordingly and I ask the stylist to come up with the required look.

As a photographer, I need to bring out the best in them and make them look versatile in the pictures. If they are facing the camera for the first time, I make them comfortable and guide them through the shoot on how to pose and bring out the right expressions. I feel creating the right ambience goes a long way when shooting a portfolio.

Theme
There is a lot of planning involved when deciding the theme and backdrops of a shoot. These are finalized after carefully considering the clothes, the makeup, the location of the shoot and the look we want to bring out in the photographs. No two shoots are the same.

Lighting
I setup a number of lighting options and keep them ready. On the day of the shoot, I decide on which one to use depending upon what the model is wearing, what best suits her face type and more. I also try different variations, whether it is soft box or something else, to see what goes well with the entire setup.

I feel creating the right ambience goes a long way when shooting a portfolio.

Bringing out the look
I am really involved in planning the look of the model. After meeting with the client and understanding her requirements, I have a word with my stylist about the look we are after. I then arrange a meet between the model and my stylist so they can try out the outfits and make the required changes. One of my assistants takes pictures during these trials to give me an exact idea about the whole look before the shoot. So if there are any last minute changes in the outfits, they are done prior and not on the day of shoot.

Talking to the models
I go to any extent to make my models feel comfortable, even if it involves giving them a vodka shot! I am constantly talking to them and I create a good ambience by playing music. If the models want to look at their pictures, I connect the laptop to the camera and let them have a look.

It is a continuous process. I talk to them before, during and after the shoot. I try and give them ideas to help them understand my vision. But I make sure I am not restrictive because shooting a good portfolio requires team work from the model and the photographer. So if I give them a brief and they are posing well, I let them be and have it their way. This helps them bring out their versatile best and it gives me a range of pictures.

I go to any extent to make my models feel comfortable, even if it involves giving them a vodka shot!

Posing to perfection
I think of poses for my models during the shoot. Once they have adorned their outfits, I look at them and decide on the kind of shots I want to take. This is when I think about how I would like them to pose- should they sit, stand, lean over or just lie down. It completely depends on the kind of shot I am planning to take. So I think of the poses more or less on the spot unless I am shooting lingerie. In that case, the model will be lying down in the shot and we will create a setting with a bed or whatever the shoot may require. If I am shooting swimwear, I decide on the location, say by the pool side, and ask my models to pose accordingly.